Why do we always conflate sex with food? On “Smell Good,” a single from his new album, Tech N9ne raps about his irresistible pheromones, comparing them by turns to fruit, cheese, Tex-Mex, and honeycomb— an array of tastes, perhaps, to suit any appetite? (Ambitious.) Whether or not Mr. N9ne is your cup of tea, the song’s sticky sweet orchestration is here for you, with syrupy guitars riffing alongside smooth backup singers. It’s all very ’90s, even if it came out last week. Treat yourself here.
Remember when people queued up for Beyond Meat? Came back from Thursday night with a mocktail to tell? Munching on cinnamon toast from my spot in (comfy Brooklyn) isolation, our pre-Corona lifestyle virtues look pretty hilarious. Seriously, it was just a second ago that we were all giving up meat and dairy and grain and alcohol and feeling SO MUCH BETTER. Now we see the truth that what really makes you feel better is the real thing. And thus, fake meat is piling up on the shelves while real cow flies off. No-carbers are hoarding flour to try their hands at homemade pasta. Even dairy seems to be coming back— my grocery store is limiting milk to two cartons per customer. I think it’s a sign of good times when people voluntarily give things up. What we have here is the inverse.
And, wouldn’t you know it, the processed devils of yesteryear are coming out on top. Just when you thought legacy brands were over, Campbell’s has announced it’s increasing its soup production to meet demand, and Prego pasta sauce is up 52%. Kraft is going gangbusters on processed deli meats and cheese, and Slim Jims are surging alongside Chef Boyardee. Chalk it up to nostalgia if you will, but the reason these guys were invented in the first place is convenience— and as it turns out, even when Sweetgreen doesn’t magically appear on their desks, people still need lunch.
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